Sedona Thanksgiving Climbing Day Number 1

Jake wanted to take some pictures of a route he did recently called Tasmanian Devil.  I had ambitions this trip of knocking off some spires toward my lifetime goal of climbing all of the technical summits in Sedona.  We compromised by doing an unclimbed chubby little 100 foot spire on the way.  It turned out to be a surprisingly fun 5.8.  We named it Aladdin’s Turban  since it’s so close to another (much nicer looking) spire called Aladdin’s Lamp. (Me and Jake climbed that one with frozen fingers on a snowy day years ago, but that’s another story.)

I was glad Manny was able to join us for the day.  It was fun climbing with old partners after so long. The last time the three of us climbed together was when we did the MAJAKOL Line (pronounced Magical). Coincidentally that climb starts from the same parking lot.

Here’s some pictures of Aladdin’s Turban.

 

This is Manny rapping off Aladdin’s Turban.  The ropes didn’t quite reach, but were close enough.

 

There were a few clouds that day, but no wind or rain…

 

And then it was off to the main objective of the day, Tasmanian Devil.  I was worried when Jake recommended 5 #4 Camelots, plus 1 #4.5 and 2 #3.5’s for the crux pitch, but unfortunately between me Jake and Manny we had the gear so there were no excuses.

Manny led the first pitch, a slightly overhanging 5.10 hand crack (mostly splitter 1’s and 2’s).

 

The belay was nice and cozy.  I didn’t want to leave, but it was getting dark so I had to get moving.

 

 

Believe it or not, there is no real off-widthing on this climb. It’s all face climbing, stemming, and lie-backing.

 

 

 

 

Here’s some shots of Manny following the wide corner.

 


Step by step photo-beta for the 15 feet of crux:

1. Place 4.5 Camelot while hanging off jugs with no feet

2. Cam foot in crack over head while still hanging on said jugs

3. Haul your carcass until you’re on top of your foot again, place #2 Camelot in horizontal, thus erasing your only rest hold (bad beta, but it’s what I did)

4. jam, chicken-wing, or layback the now slanting off-witdth with your right foot smearing on nothing.

 

5. (Optional) Hang on rope if necessary.

 

6. Toss body backwards into slightly-too-small slot, gasp for breath while hiding in slot.

 

7. Place finger sized stuff in a horizontal while denying the fact that some day you’re going to have to come out of the hole.  When you do decide to come out, grab the first jug with the right hand (not the left hand pictured below).

8. Cut feet loose.

9. Crawl over the top.

10. Wipe off the blood. Smile.

11. Bring up your partner.

 

 

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