Tuesday was the only day I had to climb with John. A free route on the Eraser Head was on the agenda. Jake and I aid climbed the first ascent of this spire a few years back. I went back with John last Christmas and we top roped a free line. Now it was time to go back and lead the thing.
But first someone had to get to the top again so we could get the remaining bolts in. I had already led it twice. The first time with no falls. The second time I fell a few times, probably because I was older and fatter. Being even older and fatter still this year, I was bound to rip the whole pitch out this time around. So I was glad when Jake volunteered. He is very skinny, which is cheating when you’re aid climbing. He didn’t fall.
The free route goes up the wall on the left sky line in these pictures.
John and I put in some bolts. When we were done we handed the rope over to Jake for the red point. I don’t even think that he noticed that it was hard, but was nice enough to agree that it was probably 5.11-.
John managed to TR it clean. I got up to the last move before my fore-arms exploded and I fell. Another great day in Sedona with good friends. Life doesn’t get much better than this.